Borderless Kitchen
Japanese izakaya interior at night — warm wooden tables crowded with groups, small plates of edamame, yakitori skewers, and sashimi visible, tall glasses of Sapporo draft beer, cheerful and slightly noisy atmosphere

July 14, 2025 · 10 min read

Japanese Izakaya Guide — What to Order and How to Eat

An izakaya is a Japanese gastropub — the place where after-work drinking and eating happen. Understanding the menu structure, the ordering culture, and what the canonical dishes are makes any izakaya visit more rewarding.

An izakaya is the Japanese pub — but that translation undersells it. British pubs serve beer with crisps and sometimes food. An izakaya serves alcohol alongside a serious menu of small plates, skewers, sashimi, and cooked dishes, in a social atmosphere that encourages two to three hours of eating and drinking together.

The word combines iru (to stay/be present) and sakaya (sake shop). An izakaya is a place to stay at the sake shop — a place for lingering.

The Structure of an Izakaya Visit

Otoshi: In Japan, sitting down at most izakayas automatically incurs a small cover charge (usually ¥300-600) and a small plate of food called otoshi — an automatic appetizer you didn't order. This is the Japanese equivalent of a bread basket, but you pay for it. At izakayas outside Japan, this may or may not apply.

Ordering style: Izakayas are not set-menu restaurants. You order as you go — a few dishes to start, more as the evening continues. The food arrives as it's ready, not in courses. Multiple dishes arrive simultaneously.

The first order: As soon as you're seated, the server takes a drink order. The first round is almost always beer — the Japanese ritual torikaezu biiru (とりあえずビール), "first, beer," is one of the most encoded phrases in the izakaya experience.

The Menu Categories

Tsukidashi / Otoshi: The automatic small appetizer. Often pickles, a small salad, or edamame.

Edamame: Always first. Boiled and salted green soybeans in the pod. Simple, perfect with cold beer. Free or very cheap.

Sashimi: Raw fish. An izakaya will have a daily sashimi selection — ask what's fresh.

Yakitori: Grilled chicken skewers with tare or shio seasoning. The definitive izakaya food. Essential.

Karaage: Fried chicken. Standard at most izakayas. The lemon-squeeze and Kewpie mayo presentation is the standard.

Agedashi tofu: Fried silken tofu in dashi broth. Light, elegant, a good palate reset between heavier dishes.

Gyoza: Pan-fried dumplings. Often decent at izakayas because the fryers are busy and the technique is consistent.

Salads: Japanese potato salad, green salad with Japanese dressing.

Tsukemono: Pickles. A small plate of various pickled vegetables.

Noodles/rice: Ordered toward the end of the evening — izakaya meals traditionally end with a carbohydrate. Ochazuke (rice in green tea), omurice, or a light ramen.

What to Order First

For 4 people starting an izakaya evening:

  1. Edamame (always)
  2. Sashimi selection (ask for seasonal recommendation)
  3. 6-8 yakitori skewers, mixed (thigh, negima, tsukune)
  4. Karaage (one plate)
  5. Agedashi tofu

Second round:

  • More yakitori
  • Grilled fish (often whole, seasonal)
  • Japanese-style potato salad
  • Pickles

End of evening:

  • Ochazuke or light noodles

The Drinking

Beer: The default opening drink. Most izakayas serve Sapporo, Asahi, Kirin, or Suntory draft.

Highball (ハイボール): Whisky and soda water. Extremely popular at modern izakayas. Goes with food better than beer for a long meal.

Shochu: Distilled from sweet potato, barley, or rice. Stronger than sake, often drunk with soda water (shochu soda) or straight on ice.

Sake: Hot sake (atsukan) in cold months, cold sake (reishu) in summer. Ordered in tokkuri (ceramic flasks) and drunk from small cups.

Umeshu: Plum wine. Sweet, lower alcohol. Good for those who don't want spirits.

The Izakaya Timeline

A proper izakaya evening in Japan:

  • 6:00-6:30pm: Arrive with colleagues after work
  • Immediately: beer + edamame
  • 6:30-8:00pm: Progressive ordering — yakitori, sashimi, fried dishes
  • 8:00-9:30pm: Later dishes, conversation, perhaps more rounds
  • 9:30pm: Final noodle/rice dish
  • Leave for karaoke or second venue (nijikai, 二次会)

The Japanese have a specific word for going to a second location after the first bar: nijikai. The izakaya is just the beginning.


Outside Japan, izakaya-style restaurants have become a significant dining category in major cities. The best ones replicate not just the food but the ordering culture — the progressive accumulation of small plates over a long, convivial evening. That's the experience.

The full recipes live in the book.

Get Tokyo Meets Tuscany on Amazon

As an Amazon Associate we earn from qualifying purchases. This is an affiliate link — it costs you nothing extra.

Paperback $19.99 · Kindle $9.99

Free download

Get the free Flavor Pairing Matrix.

The Italian × Japanese ingredient chart behind every recipe in the book. Enter your email — free PDF, one page.